Moto Safari

“Our prayers to the Gods of Dirt are answered as the blacktop quickly turns into a gravel trail that hugs and winds through lunar monoliths and rock formations that are a hundred million years old. The sun dips behind the horizon, our pupils dilate, and the adrenaline keeps us going. We enter “Die Hel” via a hundred switchbacks, and vertical cliff drops to each side as the sunlight falls away. We don’t care much for the tarmac stretch we took to get here as we thirst for more dirt, like a werewolf that has had his first taste of blood.” – Wesley Hannam

“I was raised in Namibia, and spent most of my adolescent years causing havoc on dirt bikes in the suburbs, much to the dismay of the local constabulary. Once I even serenaded the local magistrate with flowers outside the courthouse to get out of a sticky situation. She did end up squashing the charges, and so I was quickly back to raising two-wheeled hell again!” Having spent most of his time exploring Namibia, South Africa, and Botswana with his father and brother, Wesley is no newb to Adventure riding. “Together, we are constantly on the lookout for the next two-wheeled adventure, the only criteria being that it has to be somewhere, in the middle of nowhere.” Thus it’s no surprise that he’s hugely passionate about motorcycles. “However, I don’t just ride bikes. I also race and build them. I’m the proprietor of an impressive, if I do say so myself, collection of custom Ducatis. Although, most people that I know would probably argue that this affinity for Ducatis is more of an unhealthy obsession than anything else!”

These days though, Wesley splits most of his time between the northern and southern hemisphere chasing the riding season around the globe with his company Moto Safari. “I’m always up for some tomfoolery and a laugh, and I guarantee that there’ll never be a dull moment on one of our tours.” Established in 2015, Moto Safari is an adventure tour company built from the gravel up by riders with a deep appreciation for the sport of ADV riding. “We offer fully-inclusive motorcycle tours around the world that focus on epic landscapes, awesome routes, and unforgettable riding.”

Built on decades of experience behind the bars of various two-wheeled adventure machines, Wesley and his team have focussed their attention on creating the perfect ADV experience. “Each of our tours is a tailored experience, but they are all built on the same core elements that showcase the host country’s finest landscapes. We find the best twisties, trails, and off-road routes to create an unforgettable riding experience for every day while on the tour.” For this reason, they also focus on keeping the tours small and dialed in so that riders can concentrate on the thing that matters most. Riding.

We caught up with Wesley after their latest adventure that took place in South Africa. “So far, we’ve done tours in India, Vietnam, Namibia, South Africa, and Costa Rica. For 2020 we’ll be expanding to Mongolia, Iceland, and even Canada.” For these endeavors to go as flawlessly as envisioned, Wesley employs a team of like petrol gear heads. The lead guide on their tours is Kyle Scott. “Quite simply put, gasoline runs through his veins, motorcycles are his life and his reason for living. Some argue this is because Kyle was conceived on a 1978 Honda XL250. How his parents managed this balancing act, or if it was immaculate conception, we are yet to determine.”

As the lead guide, Kyle is an integral part of the MotoSafari team, an expert rider who is very comfortable behind bars, especially on the dirt. “He spent the majority of his childhood hitting the whoops at the local motocross track instead of hitting the books in the classroom.” Growing up in Kwazulu Natal in South Africa, He’s also not shy to throw a wrench at a bike and has built some veritable bikes in his time. When not leading tours with Moto Safari, Kyle is the proprietor of Wolf Moto Motorcycles, which is a custom bike and high-end moto rentals shop in Cape Town. “When combining Kyle’s easy-going nature, admirable beer-guzzling abilities, expert navigation, roadside repairs, and two-wheeled talent, it makes it easy to see why no Moto Safari tour ever leaves without him.”

Also, present on the riding team of Moto Safari is BMW GS Trophy winner Byron Coetzee. Byron is well-known for his role in the three-person team that won the GS Trophy in 2016 as part of the South African team competing in Thailand. These days Byron focusses heavily on training and passing his knowledge and skills on to fellow riders as a certified BMW Off-Road Instructor. “I love teaching in general. I would sometimes take people out who wanted to improve their riding in some areas and get a few pointers. I wouldn’t charge for any of it. I just did it because it’s fun and I enjoy seeing others improve. Then BMW offered me the chance to attend their Instructors course in Germany. So in short, my decision to become an instructor was a progressive situation, there wasn’t a defining moment where I said ‘yeah. I want to be an instructor!'” Now Byron’s skills and experience are being made available on Moto Safari’s trips to the lucky few that get to attend.

“Leopard Country reads the sign in bold letters. I was able to see it only long enough for my brain to register that I was far from home. At 85 mph / 140 kph, the gravel road signs are just a blur. It was a beautiful day, with the African sun setting, not a cloud in the sky, perfect weather, and the road was fast and smooth. I looked down and read 666 kilometers on the odometer….. when bam! My feet were above my head, hands still on the bars. A football-size rock hitting the front wheel at speed has a way of setting your world on fire. Handstand to speed wobble to back in the saddle. I was miraculously back in control. The adrenaline was pumping, but I was still on two wheels! ‘NOT TODAY SATAN!’ I half-jokingly screamed at myself. And then, hundreds of kilometers from the nearest tire shop, I looked down to see a flat tire.”

“In front of us lay a gravel road twisting and turning off into the sunset, with ice-cold beer just beyond the horizon. We would make it there, but you damn well know we were going to have to earn it. Tire spoons and inner tubes came out, and we got to work. It was the first flat of the trip, and it sure as hell wouldn’t be the last. We had 2000 km left to go, and this was only day one.”

“One day we had twelve punctures, and four riders dropped their bikes punching massive holes in the valve covers and crankcases. That day we arrived in Sutherland at 11 pm. While the ridders ate and went to bed, the crew turned spanners until 4 am to get the bikes ready for the next days riding. Morning came again, and at 7 am, it was back to clutch, throttle, and brakes. The routine of adrenaline, breathtaking views, and bragging rights for whoever could drag pegs through hairpin corners. Our bodies got more sore as the days wore on, but our spirits got higher.”

Welcome to Heaven, let’s go to Hell. “We leave Sutherland via the famous Seweweekspoort as we chase the twisties up the Swartberg pass into “Die Hel” to spend the night. A rock strewn 31 mi / 50 km track leads us down to the mysterious valley named “Die Hel” or “The Hell” in English. Here we meet the weird and beautiful proprietors of this desolate and eerie valley lodge and hung a mug on the “Tin Cup Tree. Wifi and emails become a distant memory as we delve deeper into the magical trails of the Gamaskloof.”

“Riding on, we make our way east and arrive after many hours in the saddle at the Baviaanskloof, or Baboon Valley as it translates. As we sit around the night fire, we listen to the sounds of nature. We sip on a few beers, and joke about those that have already dropped their bikes. That night we sleep near the Makkedaat caves under the stars of the beautiful and desolate clear sky. An early start awaits us the next day as we traverse the entire Baviaanskloof. This is a 250 km stretch of isolated mountain path that is breathtakingly beautiful with river crossings and boulder-strewn ravines. Beware of rim dings and kidney failure, any incident in the Baboon Valley is an exercise in isolation. Baboons are truly everywhere. We are stuck with another four flat tires and a snapped chain as we race to fix the bikes before darkness creeps in. After a long day on the gravel, endless roadside repairs, arm-pump, and exhaustion that is hard to ignore, we roll into St Francis Bay on the coast where the allure of a warm meal and a cold beer completely consumes our minds.”

Moto Safari trips include all accommodation on the road, meals, along with unlimited fuel and milage, toll fees, and entrance to National Parks. Participants will also have the pleasure of riding the brand new 2019 BMW 1250 GS’s equipped with dirt tires on upcoming tours. Support comes in the form of a 4×4 back-up vehicle that carries all the luggage, first aid, tools, and spares. Also included off-course is a Moto Safari branded t-shirt, cap, mug, and a dry bag.

“Initially, I’d thought it would be hard to manage all the different personalities that we’d end up with on tours of this calibre. But it turns out that it’s really seamless once everything gets all laid out and bare. Every hardship and challenge adds to the tale. Friendships are formed, and shared experiences bond everyone even further. Friends and memories are made that will last a lifetime. Stories to tell future grandchildren and photos to show the whole family. And all of this in far-flung places, that most people could never imagine to see or dare to go to solo.”

For more on Moto Safari’s upcoming adventures follow along on their Instagram and Facebook page.

All images supplied by Moto Safari.