Tiffany Coates

“I headed off on my first big trip in the summer of 1997. It was with my best friend, Becky, riding two-up, each of us just about reaching the ground on tip-toe on a BMW R80 GS. Having recently passed our tests we had just two months of riding experience between us when we set off. We crossed Europe, just heading East towards India crossing Turkey, Iran, and Pakistan along the way. But once we’d reached India, we found we didn’t want to stop, and so we kept going, ending up in Australia.” – Tiffany Coates

To say that Tiffany is an experienced adventure rider would indeed be an understatement. With an estimated 300 000 mi / 482 800 km plus covered during all of her motorcycle travels she’s deserving of the moniker “the worlds foremost female bike adventurer” which has been bestowed on her. “I’ve always been a traveler and a roamer, with a curiosity about the world, its people and the sights to see. Growing up, my Dad was in the Army, which meant we used to move every two years, sometimes living overseas and so it became a natural progression that I would continue traveling. Then I would return to the UK, to work and save up money only to head off again on another trip.”

“I’m still not sure how that first trip came about; neither of us had bikes, licenses or even knew how to ride! However, we were determined to do it and that this was going to be an adventure like no other.” So a plan was put together, and within no time at all both had managed to get their riding licenses, but they’d need a motorcycle that could handle the journey. “As two riders looking to share one bike for the long ride to India, Becky and I were told that although big and a bit heavy, a BMW R80 G/S would be ideal to carry both of us and our camping gear across the varied terrain from Europe to India.” So the two travelers set to work finding a suitable motorcycle at a price they could afford. “This was 20 years ago when there were few adventure bikes available, unlike the range today. Thelma as she became known, was the first and only vehicle I have ever owned. I still ride her every day going to and from work as well as on trips. I’ve never seen a need to change her.”

Despite the challenge’s the duo was unperturbed by the task of handling a motorcycle that weighed over four times more than them. “I’m more of a seat of the pants type girl than a meticulous planner so our preparation, although intensive in terms of timescale, was not as detailed as it could have been.” Tiffany and Becky worked out their route and applied for all the necessary visas along the way. “We got hold of some bike gear, some of it second hand, and I also sold all my hair to a wigmaker to raise extra funds to purchase some tools. For me, over-planning takes the spontaneity out of a journey.”

“As someone with no mechanical knowledge or experience breakdowns was always the worry initially. I’d spent two days with a mechanic in a workshop learning the basics about Thelma and how to maintain an airhead motorcycle just before setting off on the first trip. But that still doesn’t prepare a traveler for what to do when the bike breaks down in the middle of nowhere. But I learned that all I needed was patience and optimism. Someone would turn up in a car or truck which might be able to help, in Patagonia, I ended up having to hitch-hike almost 100 miles to get assistance.” Thelma had over 20 000 mi / 32 183 km on her when Tiffany purchased her. “She’s since covered over 190 000 mi / 305 700 km. She’s crisscrossed tough routes all over the world through rivers, ice, clay, from high snow-covered mountain passes, Arctic tundras to deserts.

Becky and Tiffany didn’t know much about upgrading the stock machine either when they set off. “We didn’t know anything about modifications when we first got Thelma, and so we had none. That remains the same to this day except that I now have a customized seat from Bill Mayer Saddles.” But there are some personal items that Tiffany never leaves home without. “I always take a sarong, Swiss Army penknife, gaffer tape, cable ties and a pepper grinder!” Being hands-on she also does her own servicing while out on the road, “mainly because there are no dealerships to do it for me. Although at home I tend to do most of my own servicing as well.” She also still uses the original plastic BMW cases / panniers that came with the bike. “I know they are not most people’s idea of adventure luggage, but I really like using them and find them very practical. If I’m using other bikes then I choose soft luggage, and it’s always Giant Loop luggage, they make a great product that is tough and practical as well as easy to use.” She’s also proud of the fact that she’s never owned a GPS. “I always use maps and a compass. I’m lucky to have a good sense of direction and somehow always manage to find my way.”

Tiffany is the only woman in the world employed at her level of motorcycle guiding. She leads trans-continental and long-distance routes in remote parts of the world while she’s also the only international guide offering tours in Madagascar. “Due to my reputation as a world traveler I was invited to join the team at GlobeBusters, and although it’s a dream job, I initially said no! I was just back from fourteen months of solo travel. At that point, all I wanted to do was spend time at home with family and friends. Not set out on a journey with a whole group of people. A few years later and having made some more trips, I felt I wanted a new challenge and to share my passion for motorbike travel in remote places, so I got in touch with them. They immediately offered me a three month trip, London to Beijing via Tibet and Everest Base Camp, fantastic! That was and still is the toughest commercial trip on offer.”

Picking a favorite riding spot can be challenging for most experienced riders. Especially when you have to choose from travels that cover the entire globe. But Tiffany is pretty clear in her choice. “Salar de Uyuni in southern Bolivia. It has a unique and otherworldly feel to it. Riding across a vast white expanse with no landmarks or markers to give a sense of perspective or even direction. It is a breath-taking experience.” She’s also got her mind set on some of the most difficult riding she’s ever done. “The east coast of Madagascar. It was tough as it’s so remote and as a solo rider with no other vehicles even using the trails I found I had to dig deep into my reserves just to get through each day. I almost gave up at one point, which is unheard of for me and shows how tough I found it.”

“Once you start riding you will never stop, get decent bike gear that effectively protects you from the weather, find friends to ride with and let your dreams take you wherever you want to go. I truly believe that anyone can ride anywhere on any bike that they choose to take. Don’t let others put you off because, until they have tried it for themselves, they will never know or understand the thrill of putting on your helmet, pointing your bike east and just setting off whether it’s to East Anglia or Angola; the whole world is an adventure waiting to be explored.”